Table of contents:
- BARBOSCO in GUM
- My fish 3.0
- SAVVA from Arkady Novikov
- Mama Tuta in Moscow
- SIMACH IN THE WEEKEND
- Lotus Room is a new Asian restaurant on Malaya Bronnaya
- Pino Restaurant Bar
- New White Rabbit interior and "Metamorphoses" set
Bazaar.ru columnist Maria Lobanova (@foodandthecity_msk) about the main restaurant openings in the past year.
BARBOSCO in GUM
The news came in the fall: the Mishka Bar that worked at this place changed its name to something more biting: now it is BARBOSCO. The Krasnodar restaurateur Takhir Kholikberdiev was invited to manage the new space. The Sundukov sisters, famous for their interiors, rushed to help their friend, and Takhir turned out to be a tough nut to crack. The bar slid down, and it became incredibly attractive to sit behind it; light appeared in the bar, as in nightlife in Berlin, and music, as in them. And cocktails that they never dreamed of, because in Moscow the public is much more fastidious: here the bartender has to give out a lot of somersaults in order to surprise everyone. Pavel Ann, whose charisma I fell for even when he opened Simple Wine & Bar with Adrian Ketglas, headed the kitchen here. He also worked in KM20, so he knows exactly how to please girls who are always losing weight.As a result, everything is tasty: from Krasnodar borsch with whipped bacon to pumpkin steak. One of the best cocktail cards; brunches played by the most famous DJs; the atmosphere in which you want to spend all this winter. I can't wait for summer: I can't imagine a more fantastic place for night dances on a summer veranda overlooking Red Square.
Address: Red Square, 3
Phone: +7 (495) 627 37 03
My fish 3.0
Vladimir Perelman opened his new Fish on the site of the cult Prado Cafe with the ambition to return its former glory to these doors. And it seems he will succeed. There is great music, clear service and a team, as is often Perelman's, with a perky game: either they smoke something during breaks, or they are really so happy with life, but it's fun to communicate with them anyway. Pisces's ideal concept worked here too, although Perelman jumped over his head just in case: he introduced shockingly low prices for first-class products. Well, for example, trout in salt for two or bluefin raw tuna for 990 rubles from the opening of "My Fish 3.0" and right up to the end of January. We are expecting the launch of the lower space, where at one time there was a karaoke - they promise something special. I can't help but note the perfect light: at every point of the restaurant, food is brilliantly illuminated, and the guests' faces seem to be kissed by the dawn.The Bolshoi's illuminators were invited. The devil is in the details.
Address: Slavyanskaya sq., 2
Phone: +7 (495) 784 68 58
A huge round table (as for a mafia game, according to Ksenia Sobchak) in a black room, where all the walls are a huge screen. This is exactly what the country's first immersive gastrotheatre looks like, opened by Boris Zarkov and Vladimir Mukhin together with Anton Nenashev (he is known throughout the country as the author of squirrels on First, and his studio is responsible for all the visuals in Krasota). As befits a theater, it is quiet and solemn here, only the names of the guests shine; the waiters put all the plates down at the same time, and a show corresponding to the serving begins on the walls. The first show is called Imaginary Russia - which, of course, means black caviar, Tchaikovsky, the Soviet anthem, Andrei Rublev, MMM burger, birch sap, space, Tsoi and - what is nice - the poets of the Silver Age. It is obvious from both the food and the image that it is better than in tsarist times that we have not lived and will no longer live,but we will not stop hoping. The images of this first performance, following Sobchak, Kandelaki and Tsypkin, were seen on all the country's instagram, but even before their million views, tickets were sold out two months in advance. Despite the cost of 18,500 rubles per person.
The rest will be able to come to the restaurant above the gastrotheatre, which they promise to open any minute, perhaps until the end of January.
Address: Romanov per., 2, building 1
Phone: +7 (495) 787 47 87
SAVVA from Arkady Novikov
Another long-awaited, but ten times less noisy project is the new launch of the SAVVA restaurant, which was taken over by Arkady Novikov. I even had to negotiate with a barter bonus with one restaurant rating - and this is an extreme degree of despair, not typical of Arkady as a whole. But the new SAVVA after a major overhaul turned out to be elegant, and majestic, and cozy at the same time. Not to mention the fact that Shmakov continues to grow as a chef, although two years ago (before the project was closed) he was already in the top ten in Moscow. If Novikov dreamed of opening a gastronomic flagship of the Novikov Group, which could claim a Michelin star, then Andrei is clearly capable of bringing him this star.
Address: Teatralniy pr-d, 2
Phone: +7 (499) 270 10 62
Mama Tuta in Moscow
The famous St. Petersburg restaurant of Aram Mnatsakanov opened this summer on Patrick Street - and immediately became one of the most successful new projects in the city.
Homemade Georgian bread Shotis is baked right in front of the guests in a traditional clay oven called Tone and served with aromatic Kakhetian butter. The menu of khachapuri includes flaky penovani, Megrelian with a double portion of cheese and an Adjarian boat according to the chef Gia Khuchua's own recipe. And don't forget about khinkali - classic "mother-of-pearl", author's mini with beef in cheese and black pepper sauce, rich meskhuri with lamb and smoked cheese sauce, ravioli with Kuchmachi - a successful fusion of Italian and Georgian cuisines.
In addition to all this carbohydrate boom, the menu also includes mountain djonjoli, river trout with baje, salad with Kakhetian oil, kubdari, shkmeruli and other ajapsandals.
Well, one cannot fail to note an excellent wine list with a decent selection of orange wines, and not only Georgian ones.
Address: Malaya Bronnaya, 24с1
Phone: +7 (499) 399 40 90
SIMACH IN THE WEEKEND
Arkady Novikov had a question: what to do with Nedalny, which stubbornly did not want to work under different names and with different concepts. And how to find a use for the banquet hall above it - with a stage and windows on Tverskaya.
And Denis Simachev - what to do with the name and concept of the bar, which seems to have already died, but still really wants to live.
Anton Pinsky joined the glorious company, so confidently declaring himself on the market lately that he deservedly received the title of "Restaurateur of the Year". And Glen Ballis, another hero of the day, who, moreover, already worked in the "Near East" in 2007. And this team of irrepressibles launched an old new project - again Simachev, only now SIMACH, again "Nedalny", only now with a nightclub.
A large and excellent raw menu, and the portions are such that losing weight girls stay thin and happy.
A veranda, a bar with a lounge area and a small restaurant have been working all summer, and in the fall they launched a restaurant with an open kitchen. They also waited, of course, for the club on the second floor (booths, a bar, a dance floor, so that Tverskoy shuddered) - but, you know, what a dance floor is now. Nevertheless, the secular degree of the institution is still high: Svetlana Bondarchuk celebrated her recent birthday here.
Address: Tverskoy blvd, 15s2
Phone: +7 (965) 438 70 86
Lotus Room is a new Asian restaurant on Malaya Bronnaya
Another new project of Novikov, and again with Anton Pinskiy (holding Pinskiy & Co) and Glen Ballis - Lotus Room at Patrick. Asian cuisine restaurant - from Japan and China to Vietnam and India, with an emphasis on pure taste and design in the style of Asian smokes (in the minds of glamorous girls, not otherwise!).
The chef here is Andrey Kaplunov (Near East, Cutfish). The menu has everything that is in great demand today - all these bowls, pokés, ramen and other pak-choi. Perhaps, of all Glen Ballis's projects today, this one is my favorite. Why is it fatty, tasteless and unjustifiably expensive for me in Lucky Izakaya Bar - it is always delicious and sexy here, although the local chirashi with sashimi costs 1250 rubles.
Address: Malaya Bronnaya, 21/13
Phone: +7 (495) 098 01 20
Pino Restaurant Bar
Restaurateur Alexander Oganezov has long been tormented by the desire to open "the main restaurant in the area", and he did manage it. Launched by him at the beginning of the year at Patrick's, Pino has taken its place in the restaurant pantheon, becoming a favorite place for both the bourgeoisie and the bohemian. The fashion crowd that came here created Pino's reputation as a new Vogue Cafe, and the sexy food from the chef Ruslan Polyakov attracted foodis.
One of the best breakfast spots in town is also here.
Address: Malaya Bronnaya, 21/13
Phone: +7 (901) 187 90 4
The Greek restaurant Eva, opened by Glen Ballis in cooperation with Lucky Group, became their fourth joint project (after Lucky Izakaya Bar, Margarita Bistro and Loro). And secured for Glen the title of one of the most fashionable chefs in the country.
Despite the fact that Eva opened in a room with a reputation as the most unfortunate site in the city. And despite the fact that Greek cuisine is not exactly the most popular in the city. But they managed to create a friendly party atmosphere here, where in the open kitchen the hosts cut snacks while you taste the wine. Moscow has fallen in love with this atmosphere and seems to be in the mood for a long-term relationship.
Address: Bolshaya Gruzinskaya, 69
Phone: +7 (495) 19 11 888
New White Rabbit interior and "Metamorphoses" set
The headliner of the start of the restaurants' work after you remember what events was undoubtedly White Rabbit. And although this is not a new restaurant at all, I cannot but mention it with a bonus. After all, one of our main Michelin hopes has never been closed since 2012 - since the time when Mukhin appeared here. And the pandemic brought a chance for a complete renovation of the project. During the quarantine period, White Rabbit Family was not only the first to launch an online restaurant and overseas tours, but also completely renewed the interior. Natalya Belonogova threw all the sofas into the trash heap, saying something like "there is nothing to be lounging in the theater here." And now, if you take a close look at the landing on the second floor, you will find the Mad Hatter's table with a variety of chairs and crazy chandeliers upstairs.
And the light is now theatrical and very Instagrammable.
And the whole restaurant became kind of flying in the air.
And in honor of all this, Mukhin made a new set menu "Metamorphoses". This is a theater, so the menu corresponds to the cycles of the butterfly's life and contains hits from each of the years passed.
Here is the famous Mukhin salted napoleon, it turns out, was invented in 2013, and the green okroshka with white milk mushrooms - in 2017. And already in 2019, Mukhin cooked with an alternative protein: the set included Dolma with vegetable meat Beyond Meat from Future Food. Well, and the main talk of the town is “childhood favorite dish”, which is made to order for each guest in Mukhin's favorite philosophy “food as medicine”.
Address: Smolenskaya Square, 3
Phone: +7 (495) 510 51 01