Video: Shanghai Surprise: Feminine Retro And Chinese Motives In The New Lanvin Collection
When Alber Elbaz announced his departure from Lanvin in 2015, many feared for the future of the fashion house. And rightly so: after a designer with such a strong vision, retaining a brand's clientele is often quite difficult. However, after a long period of wandering around various creative directors, Lanvin seems to have found its new face - through the efforts of Bruno Sialeli. And although his first collections for the House strongly resembled Jonathan Anderson's Loewe (the designer's previous job), in the last couple of seasons he has begun to discover his own vision of the brand.
The main distinguishing feature of this new Lanvin is the feminine retro style with delicate and highly attentive references to the Maison's archives. And if in the autumn collection he rethought the vintage advertising campaigns and packaging of the House's cosmetics (for example, the autumn-winter bags are made in the form of Lanvin lipstick packages), this time he turned to the most famous and obvious business card of Jeanne Lanvin - the robe de style dress … The one who glorified the creator of the House and forever inscribed her name in the history of fashion. Now, different versions of it are kept in the main museums of the world. Simultaneously simple and revolutionary for its time silhouette - a dress with a low waist, a small crinoline and a semblance of a modern top with shoulder straps Sialeli quoted quite literally, but still gave it a modern "sound".Three new versions of Jeanne Lanvin's bestseller opened the show at once - only now their design looks lighter and more airy, and instead of a black bow at the waist there is voluminous embroidery with beads and crystals, repeating this decorative element in shape. The show also features prints inspired by the famous illustrations by Georges Lepap, which he painted for Lanvin, and heels on sandals, citing the cap on the bottles of the House's vintage perfume. In general, the whole show was imbued with the spirit of Art Deco - and this also has an indisputable logic. The peak of Jeanne Lanvin's fame came in the 1920s and 1930s - the era of the dominance of this style in art around the world. And she herself, in a sense, was his embodiment. The main hallmarks of Art Deco are color, geometry and simple shapes.And all of them were evident in her simple and very comfortable clothes with a lot of precious decor.
China has become another important leitmotif of the collection - from the show in Shanghai to the chinoiserie-style prints on dresses and tops. And this, again, is a very logical decision on several levels at once. First, Lanvin is now part of the Chinese financial and industrial conglomerate Fosun International. Secondly, in recent years, China has been the main hope and support of the entire fashion world - it is the Chinese consumers who have proved to be the most loyal and generous. Thirdly, the country survived and defeated the coronavirus faster than anyone else - which means that, unlike Paris, native to the brand, you can arrange full-fledged shows with an unlimited number of guests. And, finally, in the work of Jeanne Lanvin, distinct Chinese motifs were also found more than once - for example, chinoiserie-style embroidery on those very famous robe de style. Apparently, Bruno Sialeli knowswhat is he doing. And not only in terms of creativity, but also business - working with the Chinese market is now most profitable.
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