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Fashion (and Life) In Phygital Format: How It Works
Fashion (and Life) In Phygital Format: How It Works

Video: Fashion (and Life) In Phygital Format: How It Works

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Video: Could the future of fashion be 'phygital'? 2023, January
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First row of Balmain Spring / Summer 2021 show
First row of Balmain Spring / Summer 2021 show

It seems that over the past six months, everyone has already begun to get used to being in limbo. Life-wise historical Houses have adopted the principles of startups: we quickly come up with an idea, quickly implement it, and if something goes wrong, we quickly abandon it and go on with the next one. Such an accelerated rollout, for example, happened with digital impressions. As soon as it became clear that any shows would not take place in our usual form, the organizers, one after another, began to announce the transition to a new online format with video presentations and electronic lookbooks. However, the example of London and Couture Weeks showed the low efficiency of this step: the views were not very impressive (the exceptions - the Valentino super show and the Dior movie fairy tale - only confirmed the rule), and the reaction was rather restrained. Fashion week has already passed in a mixed format,which journalists have christened phygital (physical + digital). Some of the presentations were held offline - with the traditional front row, but in compliance with all social distancing norms. Then the example of his Italian colleagues was followed by the lively Simon Port Jacquemus, who held his unisex show in a rye field an hour's drive from Paris. The event was attended by only a hundred spectators, but millions joined them online: the physical show in post-like realities, and even in the stunning beauty of the location, produced the desired effect.The event was attended by only a hundred spectators, but millions joined them online: the physical show in post-like realities, and even in the stunning beauty of the location, produced the desired effect.The event was attended by only a hundred spectators, but millions joined them online: the physical show in post-like realities, and even in the stunning beauty of the location, produced the desired effect.

Jacquemus Spring / Summer 2021 Show
Jacquemus Spring / Summer 2021 Show

After that, it became clear that it was important for consumers to preserve the traditional forms of relationships with designers and their works. Therefore, today, in the dangerous situation of autumn Paris, brands are ready to go for considerable expenses and balance on the tip of a covid needle just for the sake of the opportunity to demonstrate the spring-summer 2021 collections drawn and sewn in the most difficult environment. This is important for sales, and let's be honest with ourselves. to maintain the spirit of the sad fashion-public. Fashion wants to prove to everyone around that it is alive, and it does the right thing.

HISTORICAL HOUSES HAVE TAKEN ARMS STARTUP PRINCIPLES: WE QUICKLY COME UP AN IDEA, WE QUICKLY IMPLEMENT IT, AND IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG, WE QUICKLY REFUSE IT

Balmain Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2021 Show
Balmain Haute Couture Spring / Summer 2021 Show

Online retail is another important test. Captain Obvious suggested that during the lockdown, he and only he would save many. Indeed, TSUM reports that sales through the site increased by more than 100% in the spring of 2020 compared to last year. And after the store opened, they did not fall as much as expected. In the first weeks, there were fewer "live" visitors on all four floors of the legendary building than usual, but they bought more (in numbers, the conversion increased three times - that is, everyone came for specific and necessary items, which they immediately took with them). It seems that the phygital principle is also traced here: we carefully choose the network, weigh the pros and cons, go to the boutique, conduct a crash test and, if all is well, take out the credit card without any hesitation. But no one canceled spontaneous decisions,insists Khatulya Avsadzhanashvili from the Petersburg "Butterfly". “Many in the pandemic switched to sportswear, indoor clothing and other casuals,” she says, “but there is still a noticeable percentage of those who chose exclusively feathers, sequins and sharp silhouettes. Even when they were locked up, the girls were looking for their dreams in dresses. " In other words, the #quarantineyouwinning flash mob worked at all levels.

First row of the Coperni Spring / Summer 2021 show
First row of the Coperni Spring / Summer 2021 show

Text: ANASTASIA UGLIK AND ANTON GULEVSKY

READ CONTINUED IN THE OCTOBER ISSUE HARPER'S BAZAAR.

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