Table of contents:
- "Last Year at Marienbad" and Gabrielle Chanel
- "Sabrina" and Hubert de Givenchy
- "Barbarella" and Paco Rabanne
- The Pool and André Courrezh
- Siren from the Mississippi and Yves Saint Laurent
- Annie Hall and Ralph Lauren
- American Gigolo and Giorgio Armani
- "The cook, the thief, his wife, her lover" and Jean-Paul Gaultier
- "Marie Antoinette" and Manolo Blahnik
- "I Am Love" and Jil Sander
- Black Swan and Rodarte
- Skyfall and Tom Ford
- The Great Gatsby and Miuccia Prada
- "High life" and Chanel
Video: Fashion Movies
Cinema and fashion have always been considered related disciplines: designers often drew inspiration from famous films, "paying the price" for this by working as costume designers. While some examples of such unions managed to become well-known classics, others still remain less popular and therefore underestimated. We have collected those that are worth adding to the list of must-see. Camera, motor, let's start!
"Last Year at Marienbad" and Gabrielle Chanel
Alain René's painting is not Chanel's first experience in film: in the late 1920s and early 1930s, she spent a couple of years in Hollywood as a costume designer at the Samuel Goldwin film studio. But “Last Year in Marienbad” is a special case. At the time of filming, Chanel was 77 years old, and she resumed her fashion house for three years after a timeout during the Second World War. The image of the heroine Dolphin Seirig seems to have been written off by the designer from herself - the same neat short haircut, the same sheath dresses and strands of pearls. An ambiguous storytelling and stunningly beautiful film.
"Sabrina" and Hubert de Givenchy
The union of Audrey Hepburn and the French couturier can be considered canonical. They met in 1953, when Hepburn, a bambi girl, came to Givenchy to order a dress for her new film, and remained close friends for the rest of the actress's life in 1993. Initially, Hepburn planned to appear in "Sabrina" in one of the creations of Cristobal Balenciaga, but decided not to disturb the couturier with her presence and went to his student, who had recently opened his own fashion house. It's funny that Givenchy confused the actress with her namesake Katharine Hepburn (then very few people knew young Audrey by sight) and for a long time refused to take part in the work on Sabrina. In the end, Hepburn managed to persuade him - such a strong creative relationship developed between them that Givenchy created costumes for five more paintings with the participation of the actress.
"Barbarella" and Paco Rabanne
In the mid-1960s, a new generation of designers entered the Parisian fashion scene, dreamed (like most young people at the time) with the idea of space exploration and embodied dreams of the clothes of the future in their collections. One of them was Paco Rabanne, who experimented with unconventional materials, making dresses from metal plates, for example. It was one of these that became the prototype for the costume, in which the main character of the movie "Barbarella" performed by Jane Fonda appears in the final episode. In fact, Rabanne did not directly work on the tape (the costume designer was Jacques Fontereuil), but it is impossible to deny his contribution to the idea.
The Pool and André Courrezh
In the second half of the 1960s, André Courrezh was one of the stars in the sky of French fashion: young, progressive, he sensitively caught the wind of changes in the mood of the public and skillfully translated them into the language of clothing. In The Pool, the designer's outfits are worn by heroines Roni Schneider and Jane Birkin. Their simple and laconic images have little in common with the famous "space" collection of Courreges, which brought him fame, and may seem too mundane, but in fact they were the personification of modern fashion. Unfortunately, Currej's fame faded pretty soon, and Bassein became almost his last truly important word in the industry.
Siren from the Mississippi and Yves Saint Laurent
The most famous joint work of the French couturier and Catherine Deneuve (the one after which they became close friends) is, of course, "Beauty of the Day." However, "The Siren from the Mississippi" is an equally important milestone in the history of this alliance, albeit not so replicated. A year before the release of the film, in 1968, Saint Laurent first presented to the public his own interpretation of the safari style in the form of his famous lace-up dress (the one in which Veruschka posed for one of the fashion shoots), and in "Siren with" Mississippi”this motive appears more than once. As you know, Saint Laurent has repeatedly worked on costumes for films and performances (ballets by Roland Petit, "The Pink Panther", "A Very Unusual Service"), this was his outlet. However, it was with Deneuve that the couturier formed the most fruitful union.
Annie Hall and Ralph Lauren
Although the name of Ralph Lauren appears in the credits for the film, in fact, Ruth Morley was behind the creation of the character of Diane Keaton's heroine (she even wanted to sue the designer for taking all the credit for himself). Annie Hall's wardrobe consisted partly of Keaton's own things, partly from finds in second-hand shops, while Ralph Lauren provided only a few shirts for filming, a tuxedo in which Hall danced in a scene in a nightclub, and a wide tie, which the girl loved to wear with a men's vest. By the way, after the release of the film, the image in the spirit of Annie Hall became so popular that Ralph Lauren made a fortune selling only ties.
American Gigolo and Giorgio Armani
The crime drama by Paul Schroeder has become a springboard for Giorgio Armani from which he started as the designer who defined the fashion of the 1980s. In the film, Richard Gere appears in relaxed free-cut suits - it is their popularization that is considered the main merit of Armani (although in fact he learned all the cutting techniques from the famous Italian master Nino Cerruti). American Gigolo has become so strongly associated with the Italian designer that many associate this film with the beginning of the formation of Giorgio Armani as a brand.
"The cook, the thief, his wife, her lover" and Jean-Paul Gaultier
Peter Greenaway's painting is worth seeing, if only for the amazing work of a food stylist (you can immediately see where the legs of the series "Hannibal" grow from). However, costumes played an important role in creating a holistic aesthetic vision, for which it is worth saying thanks to Jean-Paul Gaultier. By the end of the 1980s, when the shooting was taking place, the designer had already received the nickname “enfant terrible of French fashion” for the fact that no, no, he dressed up men in skirts or released dresses on the catwalk that naturally resemble underwear. All these signature design touches are reflected in the costumes for Greenaway's film - by the way, it is curious that Gaultier worked on the images of not only the main characters, but even the restaurant's waiters.
"Marie Antoinette" and Manolo Blahnik
Undoubtedly, the Manolo Blahnik brand received cult status after repeated mentions from Carrie Bradshaw in "Sex and the City", but Sofia Coppola's work "Marie Antoinette" was the first film in the creation of which the shoe designer was directly involved. And although the director repeatedly said that she did not strive for the historical accuracy of her picture (after all, does everyone remember the Converse sneakers that "accidentally" got into the frame?), Blahnik approached the matter responsibly: before starting to create shoes for the main character, he spent many hours in the archives of the Paris costume museums and the London V&A, studying real shoes worn at court in the 18th century.
"I Am Love" and Jil Sander
The stunning aesthetic drama starring Tilda Swinton was released in 2009, two years before Raf Simons left Jil Sander as creative director. And although the fashion house Fendi is also listed in the credits for the film, it was the union of Simons and Swinton that was destined to develop into a true love story from the category of “designer and his muse”. From now on, the actress began to appear regularly in public in the works of Simons (one appearance on the red carpet of the Golden Globe in 2011 is worth it). By the way, the story was continued: for the new film by Luca Guadagnino “Big Splash” (2015), Tilda Swinton was once again dressed by Raf Simons, albeit as a Dior designer.
Black Swan and Rodarte
In anticipation of the release of Darren Aronofsky's ballet drama, it was announced that the darlings of the American fashion industry, Kate and Laura Mullivy, the founder of the Rodarte brand, had worked on the stage costumes for the main character. However, later the chief costume designer for "Black Swan" Amy Westcott claimed that the involvement of the Mallivy sisters was minimal, and the whole story was nothing more than a PR trick. Be that as it may, it is officially believed that the designers had a hand in the creation of seven costumes for the film, and although the Oscar jury did not appreciate their efforts, the audience passed their verdict unanimously: beautiful, period.
Skyfall and Tom Ford
When it comes to the role of Tom Ford in the history of cinema, the first thing that comes to mind is "A Lonely Man", where the designer acted not only as a costume designer, but also as a director. However, few people know that Ford took part in the work on one of the parts of "Bond
The Great Gatsby and Miuccia Prada
Frankly, Baz Luhrmann's work is not the most outstanding adaptation of Fitzgerald's novel: for example, The Great Gatsby, starring Robert Redford, in 1974, is done with much more taste and without unnecessary burlesque. However, the costumes in the 2012 version of the year are really worthwhile, even though one of the main favorites of the fashion public, Miuccia Prada, was responsible for them. As a source of inspiration, the designer used copies from the archives of Prada and Miu Miu - a total of 40 images were released, which were a fairly free retelling of 1920s fashion. However, you will not refuse to dress spectacularly, and thanks for that.
"High life" and Chanel
The costumes created for the heroine of Kristen Stewart in Woody Allen's new project are partly reminiscent of those in which Chanel herself once put on the screen Delphine Seyrig. Which is not surprising: Karl Lagerfeld has already made homage to the painting Last Year in Marienbad in his spring-summer 2011 collection. Interestingly, the action of Secular Life takes place in the 1930s - just during the short work of Gabrielle Chanel in Hollywood. At the request of costume designer Susie Benzinger, the Chanel workshops recreated two dresses from the archives of the fashion house that date back to the 1930s. In addition to Stewart, Blake Lively and several other actresses appear on the screen in the creations of the fashion house - however, they only had a chance to try on jewelry.
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