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Natalya Dogadina: "There Can Be No Taboo In Fashion"
Natalya Dogadina: "There Can Be No Taboo In Fashion"

Video: Natalya Dogadina: "There Can Be No Taboo In Fashion"

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At the intersection of two Kozikhinsky lanes - Maly and Bolshoy - there is a real fashion mecca of Patriarch's Ponds: the Rehabshop store. Locals come here to buy another pair of Golden Goose sneakers without leaving the area. Velvet tops and dresses designed by store owner Natalya Dogadina have become as popular this season as rolls in the neighboring Cutfish. We met with Natalia and asked her to show her favorite outfits, and also asked her about the style, the benefits of owning a fashion store and the difficulties of creating clothes in Russia.

How would you describe your style?

I would call him "free". Depends on the mood and changes frequently. Today I can dress like a rock concert, and tomorrow it is romantic. Or today, as for a ball, and the day after tomorrow, as for a run with the dog in the park.

Is there something that you will never wear in your life?

Now there are probably no such people. In fashion, it seems to me, there can be no taboo. The main thing is that no matter what you put on, it should suit you. Of course, I still have untouchable classics in my wardrobe: jackets, trousers. I have a lot of the latter: wide, narrow, flared. Jeans, by the way, are less: only 3-4 pairs.

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Jacket, trousers and blouse, Nili Lotan (rehab-shop.ru); Prada shoes

Why?

At one time I wore jeans all the time, and they bored me. And recently, I again caught myself thinking that I want to get out blue jeans and wear them with a black or white T-shirt and a black jacket, for example. There is now some kind of oversaturation with clothes, maybe I personally have such a dysfocus at the moment. Now I want to wear a lot of black, simple things. Minimalism inspires me, but that doesn't mean I dress like that every day. When I go to the store, even to my own Rehabshop, the first thing I do is look at a simple black "blank" blouse or another black jacket.

You say you have a lot of jackets. Which ones do you like?

Fitted, unfortunately, most often hang in the wardrobe: they are too elegant to be worn every day, so they are waiting for a more suitable release. I really love men's cut jackets: simple, loose, double-breasted, single-breasted, with gold buttons.

It turns out that your style can still be described: convenience and comfort

It is possible, but not everywhere. I am one of those people who will wear shoes, even if they are not very comfortable, but still fit the image. Of course, I will definitely not wear them often, but one evening you can endure.

H&M bracelets

What type of people do you consider yourself to be: those who spontaneously buy clothes, or are you one of those who thinks over everything for a long time before buying?

Of course, spontaneous shopping happens sometimes. But since I own my own store, I have the opportunity to take all the things I like home, try them on and see. I try to return what I’m likely to wear just a couple of times because I want to fight the excess. I am trying to make sure that only the most beloved, the best sets of clothes remain. Now I pay special attention to cut, texture and quality, of course. In my opinion, it is better to buy one expensive item that you can wear in different ways and many times.

Your last purchases?

Tabitha Simmons shoes, which I was wearing for Bazaar.ru. They are flat-soled, made in this retro style. More recently I bought a tunic dress with Agnona trousers.

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Jacket, trousers and blouse, Nili Lotan (rehab-shop.ru)

Why did you decide to open your own store?

I don't like tedious shopping: I don't like wasting time looking for clothes, as I did in New York or Paris before. I realized that finding what you really need is almost impossible: it will always be something similar, but not one hundred percent hit. I wanted to create a place where I and others can go and buy the desired item from a carefully selected assortment. And I did it. Of course, I do not buy clothes for myself, although many people think so. Many girls, coming to Rehabshop, say that all our clothes are on highs: long trousers, dresses too - and that everything is beautiful here, but looks good only on me. This is not true, because I can not wear all things. When choosing things to shop, I always think about buyers, where they can go in this or that clothes, whether the price matches the quality,with what to combine this or that thing and much more. Perhaps we really do not have clothes for very fragile girls and, conversely, large ones - this is due to a lack of space in the warehouse and a limited budget.

What are your favorite brands?

I have a long-standing love with Golden Goose. The first season, I remember, was just a failure for us, we did not sell a single pair of GG sneakers, and now they are recorded in advance, and they rarely live up to the sale. Of course, they have already become very popular, but they look so neutral that they look perfect in any look. I also love their rough biker boots, I generally have a lot of their shoes - this is my base for every day. From time to time I put them away when I want something more elegant, but I always take them out again. Golden Goose's clothing collection also has nothing elaborate, they pay a lot of attention to detail - and I really like that. You can always find jeans, men's cut trousers, jackets, T-shirts, rarely dresses. By the way, their jeans are long-livers: I have been wearing them for more than 8 years. There is also their coat, which I will never give to anyone in my life,because it is insanely beautiful: it has a crazy outer fabric, a chiffon lining that needs to be restored, a mink collar and a mink trim on the sleeves. A bit grandmother's, but absolutely mine. A pair of Golden Goose bikers are impeccable, but they have already become familiar, and I decided to remove them for some time.

Blouse and trousers No. 21; Prada shoes

So you always put things away as soon as they bore you?

Yes, and when everyone starts to wear something massively, as, for example, is now happening with blouses with open shoulders. In such cases, I don't want to buy it right away, but on the contrary, I want to buy something completely opposite, for example, a closed black blouse. It seems to happen on an intuitive level.

You say that you are tired of shopping, so you opened Rehabshop. Do you buy everything from your store or are there other locations? Maybe not in Russia?

I can buy something in Russia, but I don't go shopping. I am now so oversaturated with things that the assortment in my Rehabshop is enough for me. However, shoes are different: I can't order everything I want for my store, since each brand has its own minimums. Therefore, I often buy Prada and Tabitha Simmons shoes on the side.

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Vintage Peremotka Suit, Tabitha Simmons

Shoes Tabitha Simmons Shoes

Everyone is talking about Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy now. What do you think of their work?

Vetements is a very interesting brand. Demna Gvasalia is a serious player with a fresh perspective. Vetements is too conceptual for Rehabshop, but I really liked the latest collection. I also love what Demna did for Balenciaga. Although he promotes the ugly style, it's important to see the things behind it. Gosha Rubchinsky is also an interesting phenomenon that happened to not only domestic, but also world fashion. He is also a conceptualist: his things are simple, but with a bright and recognizable concept. Even though I haven't tried on his clothes, I love the way he styles things. I lived in the years that Rubchinsky's clothes speak of, so I’m unlikely to wear them. But it's curious to watch how a Russian guy promotes the Gopnik style and makes it world-wide popular.

If you had the opportunity to create a collection with any designer, who would it be and why?

This is a very difficult question, because I am not worthy and not competent to advise them of the designers that I like. I don't even know, I'm not a designer, although many people advised me to create my own collection, but this is not mine. I have no such ambition.

But what about the velvet dresses of your design in Rehabshop, which sold out in a few days?

I created them because there was a personal need. We could not find the perfect basic tops and simple cut dresses, in which you can go to a restaurant and to the opera, and by adding accessories, and for any cocktail. We tried to make a couple of options and it worked. There is no design either: velvet, shape, length and open back - absolute minimalism. But just such things are always lacking in collections. I don't think I will be making jackets or coats, because even creating simple tops turned out to be very difficult. There were flaws in production, and no one is interested in our volumes. In Russia, in general, there is a big problem with the production of clothes. We did test models, and I already had a bunch of questions: either the label was done wrong, or the seam was wrong. Therefore, I understand and sympathize with Russian designers. Firstly, it is expensive to do it: fabrics are not cheap,and production is inexpensive only if you have large batches. You probably have to be born with incredible ambitions to become a successful designer in Russia.

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Agnona dress and trousers (rehab-shop.ru); decoration Agnona (rehab-shop.ru)

We thank the Museum of Russian Impressionism for assistance in shooting

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