Lanvin's New Creative Director Has Finally Revived The Fashion House - And That's A Good Thing
Lanvin's New Creative Director Has Finally Revived The Fashion House - And That's A Good Thing

Video: Lanvin's New Creative Director Has Finally Revived The Fashion House - And That's A Good Thing

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Video: LANVIN | FALL WINTER COLLECTION 2020 | 朗文| PARIS FW20 2023, January
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After parting with Albert Elbaz, troubled times began in Lanvin. Neither Boucher Jarrard nor Olivier Lapidus managed to manage the French House - everything turned out at best just boring. In January this year, the management announced the name of the next new creative director. Not too attractive (to compete with the shadow of Albert Elbaz, as we see, the task is still), the position was taken by Bruno Sialelli, who previously worked in men's collections at Loewe.

After a string of bad appointments and bad collections, both audiences and critics at Lanvin have given up. But Sialelli, on whom hardly anyone outside had pinned special hopes, unexpectedly managed to make the brand interesting again. In the fall collection, the experience of the new designer in the team of Jonathan Anderson is felt - in terms of scale, and in silhouettes, and in the use of prints, and in the general feeling of some eccentricity, it really resembles Loewe. But with Sialelli everything is less experimental and more vital, which, in general, is good. If he takes as a basis, for example, the image of a fisherman, as in the image with blue culottes and a "melted" hat, then it seems like he begins to spin every detail to the maximum - and still stops halfway where Anderson would never have stopped.Therefore, boots with a wide toe only remind of fishing shoe covers, and not, as usual, ironically rethink them. Therefore, the volumes of each thing are really exaggerated, but they do not even approach the absurd. Therefore, the collection, perhaps, loses in entertainment, but gains in vitality.

But in prints, Sialelli does not restrain himself at all: they are everywhere, and these are far from banal flowers or a cage. The faces of mysterious girls with blue hair covering dresses from floor to hem, erotic scenes, copies of book pages with old ornate fonts, fishermen with mermaids, a family of elephants in the city - which is just not there.

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