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Video: American Beauty And Youth
The anti-age trend is one of the youngest and fastest growing in the entire beauty industry. And definitely the most intriguing thing for everyone who dreams, if not of eternal youth, then of prolonged youth. About the latest and most relevant developments in this area, which are already changing our lives or are about to change it, we talked with its main specialists: Elina Tester, President of the innovative company Premierpharm, and Michael Caine, a surgeon, injection master and researcher.
President of the American research holding Corrective Development, ABG LAB LLC (USA) and Premierpharm (Moscow)
Please tell us about your company's developments that you consider to be turning points in the anti-age industry
This is a very young industry, only 20 years old. I have been in this business for exactly 15 years - we celebrated the anniversary of Corrective Development a month ago. The turning point for the rejuvenation industry was certainly Botox. And today it still remains the gold standard. But botox is not at all what I do. We - myself and my company - have taken a special turn in the anti-age industry by learning to heal the skin from the inside out. Polypeptide 1, which we introduced in 2006, was the first peptide to work on stem cells. And I believe that its appearance was a turning point in the aesthetic medicine industry, if we talk about drugs that are used topically - that is, not injectable.
Now in the fashion industry there is an obvious trend for a variety of beauty. Including more and more age models with obvious, not disguised signs of aging on the face and body. How does this trend correlate with the development of the aesthetic medicine industry and its capabilities?
I am very happy with this trend - I am sure this is the best that fashion can offer us today. I have great respect for such heroines. But even women who do not want to do anything global with their face, when they go out in the evening, want to look even more beautiful than usual. And just for such cases, we have come up with certain drugs, which we call botox in a jar, "botox in a jar" - Uvenox AP2 based on Polypeptide 1, which gives an immediate effect of smoothing wrinkles. It is not necessary to prick the face - today there are other means that give temporary, but the fastest possible result.
How long is their effect?
It is not for nothing that we call this serum AP2 - it has two components: the first, which is similar to something with botulinum toxin, gives the same instant effect. And the second, our Polypeptide 1, has a cumulative effect. Therefore, the more often a woman uses the drug, the better her skin will become from the inside.
Already today, new injection methods make it possible in many cases to avoid surgical intervention. And this happened, relatively speaking, in just 20 years. How long do you think it will be possible to stop using injections in favor of topical drugs?
Do you want to ask when you can stop using Botox? Never. There are women who will use Botox all their lives and there are women who will never do it, like no other injection. There are still millions of plastic surgeries performed worldwide. Nobody has given up on anything - different categories of women prefer different approaches. To each his own. Although if you ask me personally, I believe that the future belongs to topical drugs. Because so many women today are really busy and they cannot afford to be out of order. With creams you will never fail - to use it, you need a couple of seconds. With any injection, it takes at least a couple of days to fully recover.
In the long term, what is the general usefulness and value of the development of anti-age technologies for humanity? Is it only in the satisfaction of someone's desire for youth and beauty?
You know, I'll tell you honestly: there is value. Because today, without anti-age, we cannot even fly into space. We recently signed a contract with NASA Research University, which contacted me because today a lot of people are going to fly into space. But they cannot, because thinning, depletion of the skin during space flights is a big problem. And we have developed a new technology, it is called oxygen technology - a complex of injectable and topical drugs designed to solve this problem.
Which of the technologies you are currently developing do you consider the future of the industry?
I think that there are three most important technologies today. And we will present all of them on the Russian market next year. This is definitely botox in a jar, which I already mentioned. This is oxygen technology. And, of course, neck remedies - we have already made the drug and received a trademark in the USA. More recently, to the questions of journalists what we will offer for hands and neck, I answered: a scarf and gloves. Because what works for the face will never work for the neck! There are very, very few drugs that effectively work with this particular zone. But our technology, I think, will surprise you - we will present it at the beginning of 2018.
A renowned plastic surgeon, a world expert in the field of injectables, who in America is called Doctor Botox for his contribution to the popularization of injectable cosmetology and non-surgical rejuvenation.
Why did you at some point switch from general surgery to plastic, and then completely to non-surgical cosmetology?
In plastic surgery, especially in aesthetic surgery, there is much more creativity than in general. It is the most creative of all surgical disciplines. Because every patient is different, there is no single recipe for making a person beautiful. This hooked me. In non-surgical cosmetology, until some point, there were simply not enough effective means. We had laser corrections, which took a lot of time to recover, and the first injection drug, collagen, did not have a long-term effect. In addition, he was unable to change the structure of the face. But then new products appeared: the first was Botox, then Restylane, and now many others like Radiesse. And now, with their help, you can truly change someone's cheekbones, eyes, eyelids, jaw. Don't just remove wrinkles or enlarge lips,but fundamentally change someone's face with just injections. And this, of course, is what attracted me in this area.
About replacing plastics with injections
Injections can replace surgery in some cases, not all. But much of what today we can correct with the help of injections was previously corrected only surgically - and it seemed impossible to imagine that someday it would be different. For example, I wrote the first work on correcting the drooping of the lower eyelid using hyaluronic acid injections - at that time this was a radical assumption. I predicted that the injection method would replace a third of all lower eyelid surgeries. And he was wrong - he replaced half. Today, in many areas, injections are indeed replacing plastic surgery. Everyone wants to look their best. But more and more people simply do not have time to go under the knife. People want the maximum effect with the minimum amount of time, without interrupting their usual life. So the next challenge iswhat I'm working on with Premierpharm is to make topical preparations that will become an alternative to injectables.
Please tell us about Kane NY serum - your latest and loudest development
I was disappointed with the result that most topical skin care products gave. Few of these could provide more than simple hydration. I wanted to create something that really works. First of all, I thought about the substance-base - in every topical product there is a base, the main element of the formula, which unites its active elements. In other products, this framework had no other function than to hold the working elements together. So I wanted to make a new base - they haven't appeared in 20 years. In our case, it does not just hold the active ingredients together, but is itself the active ingredient - and the delivery system that helps other active ingredients achieve their goal.
Another important difference is that we managed to find a way to mix and pack our ingredients without contact with oxygen: a lot of active elements in skin care products are deactivated and lose their beneficial properties upon contact with it. So, for example, happens with Vitamin C. In the case of our serum, this is excluded. We even developed a special packaging that does not let oxygen inside when using the product. This idea came to me as a child. In America, advertising for Intel computer chips was very popular. They were collected in this video by astronauts in spacesuits. Everything happened in a perfect, clean and completely sterile room, and these chips, which the astronauts made in the frame, seemed to me just as clean and perfect. I wanted to put our product in containers without oxygen. Like men in space suitsmaking a product on the moon.
How effective is this serum?
The evidence for its effectiveness is in the results of a blind study we conducted with the final formula. We investigated the product's effect on 30 patients, tracking four metrics over four weeks: reduction of wrinkles, hydration, skin smoothness and radiance that everyone wants but is so hard to achieve. I expected to see progress 60 or 70 percent of the time. 60 is the industry average, 70 would be great, 80 would be great. But we got 100 percent! All 30 participants, people with a wide variety of skin types, showed improvements in all four measures. I have spent 6 years of my life working on this product. And it works, which has been proven in blind studies. This is the main thing.
With what request do most of the clients come to you today? What do they want to get out of your office?
Most of my patients are realists, in this I am very lucky. They don't ask me to turn them into their twenties again, they want to be the best versions of themselves. After all, if you smooth out every line on your face, erase every wrinkle, it looks just strange. When a 50-year-old patient smiles and no wrinkles appear around her eyes and mouth, it's almost frightening - no one will like that! So for the most part, my patients want to look as good as possible - but at the same time as natural as possible.
What procedures have you tried on yourself?
I have been injecting myself for 25 years. And I tested not only my finished products, but also intermediate versions. So before coming to the final formula, I always had time to try dozens of prototypes on myself!
At what age do you think you should start thinking about Botox? Some time ago, for example, this drug became popular among 20-year-olds
Botox, I note, now has a lot of competitors - such as, for example, dysport. They all work on the same principle, relaxing the muscles that "pull" the face down - thanks to this, you visually age much more slowly. I don't think there is a specific age after which it is worth running to the doctor. But look: when a person smiles, he raises his eyebrows. When a person is surprised, he raises his eyebrows. And at this moment creases appear on his forehead. But if the person is no longer smiling and surprised, and the lines are still in place, then I think it's time to think about Botox or dysport. If in a relaxed state you have no wrinkles on your face, do not play it safe. But if you notice them, for example, when looking in the mirror in the morning, it may be time to think about intervention. In order to prevent these wrinkles and creases from forming, imprinted in the skin.Then getting rid of them will be much more difficult.
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