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Sunday Reading: Paints. The History Of Makeup "
Sunday Reading: Paints. The History Of Makeup "

Video: Sunday Reading: Paints. The History Of Makeup "

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Video: Hidden Histories: Cosmetics 2023, February

A little over a week later, sales of the Russian version of the book “Paints. The history of makeup”- a fascinating guide to the world of beauty, which is read in one breath. Lisa Eldridge, creative director of make-up at Lancôme, one of the most influential and recognized makeup artists in the world, who collaborates with legends of fashion photography and Hollywood celebrities, shares her knowledge and experience. According to critics, her book, which has already become a bestseller in America and Europe, is nothing more than a "meditation on the history of cosmetics," and Eldriezh herself is "the woman who wrote about it best."

Putting all the main events from the history of decorative cosmetics and fashion on the shelves, learning about the creation and successful development of the main brands, as well as about the key characters of the beauty industry - this is what can be done during the beauty journey organized by the publishing brand "Audrey". A fragment from the book he has published, which until February 16 is nowhere to be found, we suggest you read it right now.


A look into the future

For more than a century, the beauty industry - more than any other industry - has been inseparable from science and has successfully sold its scientific developments to women. Unlike other targeted household items that are promoted with an emphasis on their effectiveness or benefits, cosmetics sellers throughout history have drawn their audiences into discussion of complex chemical processes. Nowadays, cosmetics manufacturers describe formulations as if their customers are completely certified chemists!

In the past, makeup trends have driven progress and required new developments - just look at the history of mascara. Today, the situation is the opposite: trends in the overwhelming majority of cases are dictated by the emergence of new technologies, and astronomical sums are allocated for the development of new promising directions. Of course, the desire for a new and improved product is also a driving force, but cosmetics companies use technology as a hook on which the marketing department can hang the next trend.

Today, the only way to communicate about a product in a way that is heard is to explain that it can do something that others cannot. And then you, for example, release a lipstick that "lasts sixteen hours on the lips."

You cannot simply take and release lipstick of a new pink shade - there are no new shades of pink left.

All makeup trends - smoky eyes or red lips - move in a spiral. They leave and come back again. The means that are used to create them on each new round must be improved. They should be better, more comfortable, more reliable, brighter or more invisible than the previous ones. This is the essential difference. From my point of view, the main developments that changed the beauty industry beyond recognition in the twentieth century are new technologies for the production of mother-of-pearl, the use of silicone and the invention of really durable and really comfortable textures. As a make-up artist, I am absolutely sure that this trio has accelerated the process of applying cosmetics, halved the time for shading and the need to touch up makeup. Looking into the future is just as interesting for me as looking back.I was fortunate enough to work as the creative director of major brands, and I had the opportunity to collaborate with the best cosmetic laboratories in the world. Their creative scope is amazing. You begin to understand that cosmetics manufacturers require the same fantasy, imagination and audacity that is required of a makeup artist when he starts creating a new image.

Technologies of tomorrow

Apart from the industrial production of synthetic glitter, which was established in 1934, all the largest developments in the field of decorative cosmetics have occurred in the last twenty years. Today, synthetic components are used not only to create glitters, but also pigments. Veronique Roulier, head of L'Oréal's luxury laboratories, says that all the pigments they use are of synthetic origin. But why? Because it makes it easier to control quality and purity. Natural pigments are unpredictable: they change color, then deteriorate. Iron oxides are still in use, but these days they are in a synthetic version: so, in a way, the circle of history goes back to the days of Ancient Egypt!

Good old glitter

A mineral such as mica, or mica (the name most likely comes from the Latin micare - "to sparkle"), was used to brighten rock paintings. Like many great discoveries, the method for making artificial sparkling particles was found by mistake. The inventor of this method, Henry Rushman, had a profession that was not quite typical for our industry: he was a mechanic and a pastoralist. In 1934, Rushman somehow accidentally stumbled upon a method of slicing colored plastic into tiny, glittering pieces. He did not immediately understand what he had invented, but he guessed that it was something unique. So he patented his invention and founded the family company, Meadowbrook Inventions, which still exists today on the site where his cattle ranch once stood. Even more amazinghis company is still the largest manufacturer of glitter glitter in the world (their motto is “Our glitter covers the whole world”).



Cosmetics with a pearlescent effect in a classic design were made using mica (the same material as the prehistoric shine) and fish scales. Shining iridescent mother-of-pearl first became popular in the sixties, in the wake of new trends in makeup. Although, by and large, the cosmetics available then were not particularly sophisticated. Today we have the most incredible textures and shades at our disposal - all thanks to the rapid development of mother-of-pearl technology. Over the past 20 years, she has radically changed all decorative cosmetics. The importance of mother-of-pearl is perfectly confirmed by the fact that L'Oréal, according to Veronique Roulier, uses twenty simple pigments in its work - and more than a thousand pearlescent ones. Recently, developments in the field of pearlescent particles have been at the forefront:in the finished product, they are responsible for the color special effects. Interestingly, the cosmetics industry has turned its attention to pearlescent pigments thanks to the automotive industry. In fact, car manufacturers still supply us with paint for creating pearlescent pigments.

In the eighties, a technological revolution took place in the production of automotive paints: it became possible to obtain shimmering iridescent paint with such a depth of color and with such gloss that it was not possible to achieve before. To exclude natural mica from production, the first step was to turn to transparent synthetic mother-of-pearl. Its particles are smaller and more uniform than natural ones, and have the most important quality - transparency, creating a glowing effect from the inside. It is the transparency that allows the light to pass through the pearlescent particle, thanks to which the texture of modern products can be so thin and almost invisible on the skin. Before the invention of artificial mother-of-pearl, cosmetics with a pearl effect looked rough - metal particles were large and with an uneven surface,so they just layered on the surface of the skin (think of the eyeshadows and glittering powder-highlighters of the seventies).

Very fine synthetic pearlescent particles with a satin glow are often used in highlighters, blushers and foundations to create a subtle, subtle shimmer. From the perspective of a makeup artist, all highlighters used to have a metallic sheen. But the means of the new generation look so natural that it creates a complete feeling that the glow is real, as if it really comes from inside the skin itself and is its property, and not something separate, laid over the face.

Modern means keep you looking youthful yet sleek.

Later, mother-of-pearl particles were made glass, using borosilicate glass for this. Like the transparent particles of artificial nacre, they are then coated with pigments; however, when glass particles are used, the light reflection is even stronger and the color can change by refraction, as happens when light passes through a prism. If it sounds too complicated, remember the effect of colored lights from the sun's rays falling on a crystal chandelier. The principle is the same.

The next, even more difficult level of making artificial mother-of-pearl involves coating a glass particle with a silver or gold pigment, which makes it mirror-like. These particles are most commonly used in the manufacture of lipstick, eyeshadow or eyeliner. If you've always wondered how manufacturers manage to make shadow surfaces look like real metal, this is the answer to your question.

Nowadays, makeup can be professional, perfect and sophisticated - and mother of pearl plays an important role in this. This is a makeup with a natural glow and almost impossible softness of coverage, retouching makeup, from which the face does not stop looking natural, but becomes flawless.

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